(1) Peel off self adhesive backing install rubber seal around perimeter of top as shown.

Photo A: Bond 1/4 inch tape to flat of flange and onto carpet.
Photo B: Rub bonding surface with lacquer thinner, acetone, sandpaper, or wax and grease remover for better adhesion. If adhesive becomes weakened use a drop of contact cement.

(2) Make sure rubber seal extends 1/6" to 1/8" outside of edge where top touches central
rollcage to reduce chafing of paint.

(3) Check rear holes in carpeted flange for obstructions. Lower roof down onto studs. Check for hole alignment. Studs may require a slight tweak 1/8" in any direction to line up with 1/2" hole in top carpeted flange.

(4) Make sure 3 washers are under studs on 1995-1998 plastic edge models and 1-2 washers are under the studs for 1989-1994 rubber edge models. These washers raise and lower studs to adjust thread penetration into plastic lock-down knobs.

(5) Some of the newer models have a lower metal bar support for the soft top rear window. The end mount [D4] may interfere with the top latches. To remove, simply undo 2 screws [C] in the plastic end of the side molding and lift up the side end [D1] of the side molding to access 2 bolts [D2 and D3] holding on these clips. A socket will fit one screw and open end with the other.

(6) The initial fit will be snug as rubber and carpet under flange will have to conform to contour of the edge of car body. You may have to use some pressure and jiggle it down over the studs.--- all future fits will be easy ---

(7) Make sure all loads on roof racks are securely tied to front and rear bumpers to avoid any mishaps. The designers and manufacturers cannot assume responsibility or damages caused by loads carried on top of roof.

(8) Maintenance Tips: 2 coats of Carnuba wax per year will lengthen life of the finish. A drop of oil or lubricant, such as WD40, to front and rear studs will prevent corrosion.